What are the best makeup products to create “ami eyes” like in Korea?

Understanding the Korean “Ami Eyes” Aesthetic

The term “ami eyes” refers to a popular Korean beauty trend designed to create a soft, innocent, and youthful eye shape that appears larger and more doll-like. The goal isn’t a dramatic, sharp look but rather a gentle, approachable, and bright-eyed effect. This is achieved through a combination of specific makeup techniques and products that work together to open up the eye area, create a subtle aegyo-sal (the small fatty pouch under the eyes), and enhance the eyes’ natural sparkle. The look is all about soft focus and hydration, avoiding harsh lines or heavy, matte textures. To see a visual breakdown of the transformation, you can explore this guide on ami eyes.

The Core Product Categories for Achieving the Look

Creating authentic ami eyes relies on a curated selection of products, each serving a distinct purpose. Unlike Western makeup routines that might prioritize full-coverage foundations and bold eyeshadows, the Korean approach is layered and nuanced, focusing on texture and light reflection.

1. The Base: Skincare-Infused Primers and Foundations

Before any color cosmetics, the canvas is crucial. Korean beauty emphasizes a dewy, hydrated base that makes the subsequent eye makeup look seamless and fresh. The skin around the eyes should look plump and luminous.

• Hydrating Eye Primer: This is a non-negotiable first step. Look for primers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or peptides to smooth fine lines and prevent concealer from creasing. A good primer ensures your eye makeup lasts all day without looking cakey.
• Lightweight, Dewy Foundation/Cushion Compact: The famous Korean cushion compact is ideal. It provides light to medium coverage with a naturally radiant finish. Data from market research firm Amorepacific shows that over 60% of cushion compact users in Korea cite the “dewy glow” as the primary reason for purchase. Avoid matte or full-coverage foundations, as they can make the under-eye area look flat and emphasize texture.

2. Eye Shape Definition: Eyeliners and Shadows

This is where the shape of the ami eyes is crafted. The technique involves creating the illusion of a larger, rounder eye shape with soft, blended edges.

• Pencil and Brush-Tip Liquid Eyeliners in Brown: Black eyeliner can be too harsh for this look. Instead, soft brown is the go-to color. A pencil liner is used to tightline the upper waterline (making lash roots appear thicker) and to draw a very thin, soft line along the upper lash line that extends slightly downward at the outer corner instead of a sharp wing. A brown brush-tip liquid liner is perfect for creating precise, hazy lines that are easy to smudge. Sales data from Olive Young, Korea’s largest health and beauty store chain, consistently ranks brown eyeliners as top sellers in the eye makeup category.
• Matte and Satin Finish Eyeshadows: The eyeshadow palette for ami eyes is typically neutral. You’ll need a light, matte shade close to your skin tone for a base, a medium matte brown for the crease to add subtle depth, and a satin or shimmer shade in a champagne or peach hue for the inner corners and center of the lid to brighten and widen the eyes. The key is to blend everything until there are no visible lines.

3. The Signature Touch: Aegyo-Sal Highlighting

This is arguably the most distinctive element of the ami eyes look. Aegyo-sal is the small, defined pouch of flesh directly under the eye. Instead of concealing it, the trend accentuates it to create a youthful, smiling expression.

• Contour and Highlight Duo: You’ll need a matte shadow or powder that is 1-2 shades darker than your skin tone and a shimmer highlighter. A small, precise brush is essential. The technique involves drawing a soft, subtle line in the shadow directly under the aegyo-sal with the darker shade, and then highlighting the pouch itself with the shimmer. This creates a 3D effect that makes the eyes pop. According to tutorials from Korean makeup artists like Pony, this step can increase the perceived size of the eyes by creating a visual extension of the lower lid.

4. Lash and Brow Perfection

Lashes and brows frame the ami eyes, completing the innocent yet polished look.

• Natural, Wispy False Lashes or Clear Mascara: The goal is enhanced, not dramatic, lashes. Individuals or short, wispy cluster lashes are applied mainly to the outer half of the eye to create a puppy-dog effect. Alternatively, using a clear mascara to groom and hold the natural lashes in place is very popular for an ultra-natural daytime look.
• Straight, Gradient Brows: Arched brows can sometimes look too severe. The preferred style is a straight brow with a soft, blurred front. This is achieved using a fine-tipped brow pencil to draw hair-like strokes and a light-handed application of a brow mascara to set them in place. The gradient effect (lighter at the front, darker at the tail) softens the overall facial expression, complementing the gentle eye makeup.

Application Techniques: The Devil is in the Details

Having the right products is only half the battle; knowing how to use them is what creates the authentic look. The application is methodical and gentle.

Layering is Key: Start with a hydrated base. Apply your eye primer and let it set. Then, use your fingertips to gently pat your cushion compact foundation around the eye area for a skin-like finish. When applying eyeshadow, build the color slowly with a fluffy brush, blending after every single step until the transitions are invisible. For the eyeliner, rest your pinky on your cheek for stability and draw short, feathery strokes, connecting them rather than attempting one continuous line.

Focus on the Lower Lash Line: A major difference in technique is the attention given to the lower lash line. Instead of a heavy line, a small amount of the medium brown eyeshadow is smudged along the outer two-thirds of the lower lash line. This connects the makeup from the upper lid and makes the eyes appear rounder and more balanced, a cornerstone of the ami eyes aesthetic.

Product Recommendations from Popular Korean Brands

While the techniques are universal, certain Korean brands have become synonymous with high-quality products perfect for this look. Their formulations are often specifically designed for the dewy, natural finishes required.